Photographing places of memory: a technical and ethical guide
November 2013. Five months earlier, Olga had died: my wife since 2003, and the person I'd founded the agency with in 2006. I didn't know what to do with my days any more, so I decided to go back to Umbria for a few days, to Bevagna.
It was there that a friend told me about two old, abandoned cemeteries: one at Caligiana, a hamlet of Tuoro sul Trasimeno, the other at Rasina, near Umbertide. I went to see the first, camera slung over my shoulder.
A stone enclosure with a pantile coping. A few pale headstones leaning towards the grass. An iron cross planted in the ground, a slab covered in moss, a dark cypress behind. The November light round there is always in a hurry.
I took a lot of photos. I couldn't tell you how many frames: they're on an old hard drive, along with everything I shot between 2003 and 2013. I kept them all. Even the ones I'm ashamed of.
Because at some point I realised: I was shooting without looking. Behind every cross was a forgotten person, with no one left to say their name. And I, still wearing my grief, was treating them as subjects.
It was a double shame. Mine, as a careless photographer. And that of someone who feels, as a citizen, responsible for the neglect: cemeteries left to fall apart, whole families entrusted to walls that won't hold.
I've thought this ever since, and I haven't changed my mind: in a place of mourning there's no such thing as a neutral photograph. There's the photograph you can answer for to whoever looks after that place. And when nobody does, to yourself.
This guide starts from there. Permissions, kit, light, the places I know between Campania and London, the masters to learn from and those to learn what not to do from. With one warning: you won't find a single trick for making "striking" photos. You'll find how not to make them.
Memory isn't a landscape
Walking into a cemetery, an ossuary, a memorial isn't like walking into a landscape. It's walking into an archive of interrupted stories. And the first question isn't about light. It's about keys: who looks after this silence?
Four kinds of custodian
In my experience there are four kinds of custodian, and the kind changes how far back you need to stand.
The community. The Fontanelle Cemetery, in the Rione Sanità in Naples, reopened to visitors in April 2026 after seven years of closures. It's run as a partnership between the city council and the La Paranza cooperative, the same one that relaunched the Catacombs of San Gennaro. Here the custodian is the neighbourhood.
The trust. At Abney Park, in Stoke Newington, in the London borough of Hackney, the trees and monuments are looked after by the council, and a trust puts on activities and collaborations. It's a cemetery that's also a park: dog walkers, joggers and people reading on a bench all pass through.
A foreign state. In the municipal cemetery of Santa Maria Capua Vetere there's a Polish section with the fallen of the First World War. Poland looks after it through its diplomatic missions. The custodian, formally speaking, sits in Warsaw.
Nobody. Caligiana. The convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie at Caiazzo. Here the custodian is whoever turns up with a camera.
The custodian who exists and doesn't hold up: Poggioreale
Then there's a fifth case, the one that hurts me most: the custodian who exists on paper and doesn't hold up.
On 5 January 2022, at Poggioreale in Naples, a burial building collapsed: about two hundred niches destroyed, remains mixed up in the rubble. On 17 October the same year, a good part of the Resurrezione confraternity chapel came down, with around ten coffins left hanging in the void, visible from far off. The cemetery was shut again. The families spoke of a collapse everyone had seen coming.
I don't seek out those images and I don't publish them. I mention them because they prove what happens when custody becomes a formality: the memory of whole families ends up under rubble, and we look on from the street.
Before you switch the camera on: permissions and rules
Here in Italy, bureaucracy is seen as dead weight. In places of memory it's the first ethical choice you make. It's the moment you tell whoever hosts your presence: I know where I'm walking into, and I respect your rules.
Three different regimes: Fontanelle, Abney Park, Santa Maria Capua Vetere
Fontanelle. You need to book to get in. Ordinary opening hours are 10am to 6pm, with last entry at 5.15pm. Closing days and prices have changed several times and the sources don't agree: always check the official website, and if you publish, give the date you checked. For editorial or commercial use, or with professional kit, write to La Paranza before turning up.
Abney Park. It's open every day, entry is free and nobody will stop you taking personal photos. For photography or filming for commercial purposes you need permission from Hackney Council's film office. They don't say no outright: they ask why you're there.
Santa Maria Capua Vetere. The council has a funeral and burial regulation (regolamento di polizia mortuaria). Many Italian municipal regulations require prior authorisation from the head of the service to photograph graves and funerary monuments. I haven't yet read the Santa Maria Capua Vetere one article by article, and until I have, I won't cite it.
Until I have the council's written authorisation in hand, I won't publish photographs taken inside the municipal cemetery. The images in that section are generated reconstructions, and I say so in the caption.
A request template to adapt
Here's the request template I'll be using. Adapt it to your case.
Subject: request for authorisation to take photographs at [name of cemetery or memorial]
Dear Sir or Madam, [managing body / Council / Department]
I, the undersigned, [full name], as a [professional / amateur] photographer, request authorisation to take photographs inside [name of cemetery], pursuant to Article [insert the article of the current municipal regulation].
Date: [DD/MM/YYYY]. Time slot: from [time] to [time]. People involved: [number]. Equipment: [camera bodies and lenses; I declare that no flash or artificial lighting will be used].
Purpose and channels: the images will be for [documentary / editorial / study] purposes and will be published on [channels]. There is no direct commercial purpose tied to the sale of individual images.
I undertake to respect the place and the rest of the dead, not to obstruct paths, not to disturb visitors and ceremonies, and not to photograph people at prayer from the front.
Yours faithfully, [signature and contact details]
Filling it in forces you to define the project. It stops you being a tourist of the macabre. If you want the legal basics of shooting in the street or in public places, read Street photography in Italy: the art of the stolen moment between copyright and GDPR, where I also explain what GDPR is, the European privacy regulation.
The setup: the kit you have, not the kit you'd like
The forums are full of experts telling you that without a €5,000 full-frame and an f/1.2 lens you can't shoot in the dark. In my experience, obsessing over kit is the alibi of people with nothing to say. In places of memory, the kit you have is exactly what you need, as long as you know its limits.
The two cameras
I work with two very different camera bodies.
The Lumix G90, a Micro Four Thirds system, with the Lumix G 12-60mm f/3.5-5.6 zoom. The crop factor is 2, so that 12-60 is equivalent to a 24-120mm. The sensor-based stabilisation, paired with the lens's own, lets me use long shutter speeds handheld on still subjects. And it has a silent electronic shutter: in places where every noise carries, that matters.
The Nikon D3200, an entry-level APS-C DSLR, with the 18-55mm and the 55-200mm, both with optical stabilisation (the acronym is VR, Vibration Reduction). The crop is 1.5: the 55-200 becomes an 82-300mm. The sensor is old: ISO, the sensor's sensitivity, goes up to 6400 natively, and beyond 3200 the noise gets heavy. It has no in-body stabilisation and no silent shutter.
The 55-200 isn't a technical choice. It's an ethical one: it lets me keep my distance from someone praying, and document a detail without stepping into their bubble of silence.

Starting settings for each place
The settings below are starting points, not gospel: they come from the limits of the two bodies, and should be checked against the manuals and in the field.
| Place and situation | Body and lens | Aperture | ISO | Shutter speed | Note |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fontanelle, nave | G90, 12mm | \( f/3.5 \) | 3200–6400 | 1/30 with stabilisation, still subjects | spot metering on the shaft of light, –0.7/–1 EV |
| Fontanelle, nave | D3200, 18mm | \( f/3.5 \) | 3200 | 1/30 only with VR on | above 3200 the noise takes over |
| Cemetery avenues in full light | G90, 24–60mm equivalent | \( f/5.6 \)–\( f/8 \) | 200 | 1/250 | bracketing ±2 EV over 3 shots if backlit |
| Polish section, from a distance | D3200, 55-200 | \( f/8 \) | 100–200 | 1/250 with VR | from the path only, never on top of anyone praying |
| Interior of a ruin | D3200, 18-55 on tripod | \( f/8 \)–\( f/11 \) | 100–400 | from 1/15 to several seconds, VR off | bracketing ±2 EV over 3 shots |
| Abney Park, overcast | G90, 12-60 | \( f/4 \)–\( f/5.6 \) | 400–1600 | 1/125 | +0.3/+0.7 EV so the greens don't turn muddy |
| San Pietro Infine, raking light | G90, 12mm | \( f/8 \) | 200 | 1/250 | level horizon, lines of the collapses as a guide |
"EV" is exposure compensation: –1 EV means closing down by one stop, one step of brightness, from what the light meter suggests.
The rules of engagement
Few rules of engagement, and none of them negotiable. Tripod only where it's allowed and without blocking the way. Never flash: firing a burst of light among the graves is visual violence. And if your kit won't let you shoot the way you'd like, that mediocrity isn't an excuse. It's a constraint to declare, like the Caserta carpenter who doesn't set up the same workbench for oak and for poplar.
Fontanelle: light in the tuff with slow lenses
What you find when you go down
The Fontanelle Cemetery hits you straight away. The first impact is physical: the sudden change in temperature, the damp that clings to your skin. Then the atmosphere, mystical, the gloom slashed by proper shafts of light. And then the tide: skulls and bones lined up with obsessive care along the walls.
Three huge galleries dug into the yellow tuff of the Materdei hill, ten to fifteen metres high and about a hundred long. They hold around 40,000 remains, victims of the plague of 1656 and the cholera of 1836. For centuries the cult of the anime pezzentelle was practised here: adopting an anonymous skull in exchange for prayers and protection.
Shooting in low light, without flash
With the G90 you start wide, at 12mm, to take in the whole nave, at f/3.5, the lens's maximum, and ISO between 3200 and 6400. The stabilisation allows 1/30 of a second handheld on still subjects. The problem isn't the dark: it's the shafts of light, which fool the light meter. You meter in spot mode on the shaft, which in the dark is the only thing that counts, and take off 0.7 to 1 EV. The shadows can be recovered from the raw file (the RAW, what the camera records before any processing).
With the D3200 it's rougher: ISO fixed at 3200, 18mm, 1/30 only with VR on and your breath held. Beyond that threshold there's only blur.
White balance is measured off a neutral grey in the tuff, not off the bones. The light that comes in from above and bounces off the yellow tuff gives a warm cast the auto setting won't forgive.
The frame to look for, and the ethical limit
There's only one: the whole nave, a beam of light cutting the dust diagonally, the rows of skulls seen from afar, as a community and not as relics.

And there's the limit that separates the photographer from the horror tourist: no isolated skull in the foreground with a blurred background. Done to please Instagram, it's pornography of grief. Tell the scale, the ritual, the community. Don't prey on the individual human remain.
If you end up with grainy files from these places, don't blindly trust an artificial intelligence to clean them up. Read Denoise, Firefly or Luminar Neo: which AI to choose for your photos (and when to use none at all) first, otherwise you'll lose the texture of the tuff too.
Santa Maria Capua Vetere: a hundred identical crosses
If the Fontanelle are the Neapolitan explosion of a relationship with death, the Polish section of the Santa Maria Capua Vetere cemetery is order handed down from above.
A place I know on foot
I've known it for years. I go often, when I take Magda, my partner since 2018, to her mother's grave. Magda is Polish, and for her a visit to the Polish section is almost a compulsory stop. Then, sometimes, I stay and walk for a long while along the avenues. I like walking among the graves: it's a bit like getting to know the people who live in your neighbourhood. You learn to recognise them, they become familiar. That too is a form of remembrance.
What follows tells you what's there and how you would photograph it. I've only ever walked there.
What the documents say
The section is immediately to the right of the main entrance. It has two irregular parts divided by a path and enclosed by a low wall of tuff blocks with a concrete coping: 75 graves in the first, in eleven rows, 25 in the second, in nine. A hundred in all. Each grave has a trapezoid-shaped obelisk with a cross and a small engraved plaque; three stone beams mark off the plot. The stone is white limestone. These are data from the conservation survey commissioned by the Polish Ministry of Culture and signed by Piotr Niemcewicz in November 2016.
The survey records the rest as well: in 2016 the condition was judged unsatisfactory, with broken crosses, illegible inscriptions, microorganisms, rose bushes grown right up against the graves, and blocks shifted by unstable ground. But it also notes the care shown by Poles living in Italy and by visitors from Poland, who leave white-and-red ribbons and small lanterns. That detail says more than any coat of arms.
The history
During the First World War there was a prisoner-of-war camp at Santa Maria Capua Vetere for Polish soldiers of the Austro-Hungarian army, some of whom volunteered to fight with the Entente for Polish independence. The death dates on the graves are close together: from 20 November to 8 December 1918, with a few headstones from January 1919. When they die, the Italian front has been quiet for only a few days. A reconstruction published by Dea Notizie in July 2024 attributes those deaths to Spanish flu in the camp. It's a plausible hypothesis, but the article cites no documents: I report it as a hypothesis, not as fact.
On the wall of a building in the old part of the cemetery there's a marble plaque: according to the same reconstruction it was put up in 1935, the fourteenth year of the Fascist era, and speaks of soldiers who died "while preparing to fight for the common cause". The 2016 survey counts a hundred names on it. Dead before they'd even been deployed, in a land that wasn't theirs. There are small discrepancies between the sources (about a hundred graves, about a hundred and twenty dead), and I'd rather say so than pick one.
How you photograph it
The tuff wall is the leading line that takes the eye towards the crosses. With a 24-60mm equivalent lens, an aperture between f/5.6 and f/8 and ISO 200, the depth of field is enough. White limestone in the sun creates vicious backlight: the answer isn't HDR (high dynamic range, the thing that flattens everything into an artificial atmosphere), it's bracketing, three shots at ±2 EV, and measured recovery in processing. To read worn inscriptions you need the raking light of late afternoon. Never chalk, water or sheets of paper on the stone: the survey shows inscriptions repainted with paint that then flakes off.
If you're using a telephoto (the D3200 with the 55-200mm), stay on the path. There's often someone praying, or looking for silence. Don't invade that space.

The last warning concerns what belongs to others. Among the crosses you'll find signs of the living: white-and-red ribbons, glass lanterns, worn plastic flowers. Don't touch them. Don't move a lantern ten centimetres because it ruins your diagonal. Things are photographed as you find them, because that imperfection is the trace of someone who came by to say hello.
The plaque, finally, is photographed head-on and flat. You don't look for the "creative" angle: the document has to stay a document.

Places without a custodian: Caligiana and the convent at Caiazzo
Caligiana: the place without a custodian
Back to that November afternoon, to the stone enclosure. Caligiana is the essence of the place without a custodian. No gate with opening hours, no body to ask permission from, no cooperative polishing the headstones.
I'm not ashamed of the photos themselves. I'm ashamed of how I was looking: I didn't see the person behind each headstone, I saw subjects. The crooked headstone wasn't a subject: it was a name nobody read any more.
I've kept all the frames on the old drive, the one covering 2003 to 2013. Not out of faith in the results. To remind myself what it means to look badly.
The convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie at Caiazzo
In 2025 I visited the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, at Caiazzo, in the province of Caserta, in the locality of Cappuccini. I shot with the Nikon D3200, inside and out.
The Ministry of Culture has listed it among abandoned cultural heritage. The entry says the convent was built in 1496 by a bull of Alexander VI, in an isolated position, to shelter the eremitic worship of the Franciscan fathers. It stayed active until 1866, when, with the suppression of the religious orders, the friars were sent away. In the nineteenth century the whole structure and the area around it became a burial ground: niches, headstones, inscriptions, skulls carved on the iron gate. Late in the twentieth century an unfinished restoration wiped out the convent's upper floor. Today, the entry says, its state of conservation is "dire", with signs of numerous acts of vandalism.
It adjoins the municipal cemetery. To get there I crossed a ring of brambles and overgrown vegetation.
Who answers for the graves when nobody looks after them
The ethical question, when you're alone, is always the same: who answers for the graves when nobody looks after them? The answer is a hard one: you do, with your shot.
The temptation, for someone with a strong aesthetic training, is to play set designer. The headstone is crooked, ivy covers the name, a broken branch interrupts the diagonal. There's an urge to clean, to move, to compose. Don't. The cardboard boxes abandoned in a blackened room aren't furnishings: they're proof of how that place has been treated, and they're part of the document. Altering abandonment means producing a historical forgery.
How you photograph a ruin
Technically, these places call for patience. Inside, the contrast between the bright openings and the dark walls exceeds the dynamic range of an entry-level DSLR: either you blow out the green outside or you lose the wall inside. Three shots at ±2 EV, an aperture between f/8 and f/11 for sharpness across all planes, a solid tripod. And the VR, the stabilisation, should be off when the camera's on a tripod: the system looks for micro-movements that aren't there and ends up creating them.
Then keep quiet. Listen. Let the stone set the pace.
7. San Pietro Infine and the Huston case
The silence of San Pietro Infine
At San Pietro Infine, in the province of Caserta, what strikes you is the silence. Broken only by the whistle of the wind, which amplifies every noise. The gutted houses. The empty windows and doors framing the sky directly. Domestic interiors laid bare, the wounds of war.
It's like stepping into suspended time, stopped at a certain day, a certain hour, while time carries on flowing and producing the marks of abandonment. It reminds me of Pripyat, the ghost town that has become the symbol of Chernobyl.
The battle and the right light to photograph it
Between 8 and 17 December 1943 the village was the scene of a ferocious battle: the 143rd Infantry of the US 36th Division against the German lines. There were around 1,200 killed, wounded and missing. Today the village is a memorial park, with the town rebuilt further down the valley.
Technically, what counts here is raking light, and geometry. With a wide-angle lens, keep the horizon level: a crooked horizon in a place of ruins becomes an effect. The lines of the collapses guide the eye, and the empty windows act as frames within the frame. Aperture \( f/8 \), ISO 200, 1/250.
The Huston case: declaring what's been reconstructed
Filming that battle was John Huston, an officer in the US Army Signal Corps. The result was The Battle of San Pietro, a documentary so raw, with the soldiers' bodies wrapped in sheets, that the military top brass tried to keep it from the public. It was General George Marshall who defended it, arguing that recruits should see what war means.
And yet Huston made terms with the truth. A closing title admits that some scenes were shot before and after the battle for the sake of continuity. Later research suggests there were many more of them. Martin Scorsese, talking about it, said that Huston staged something in the service of a harsher truth.
From this I draw a rule, valid for anyone photographing those ruins or any other memorial: you always declare what's been reconstructed.
If you go to San Pietro Infine and put a rusty helmet, found on the ground, on a stone for a dramatic close-up with the church in the background, you have to say so in the caption. Otherwise you're passing off a staged still life as photojournalism. And there's a corollary: if you haven't been somewhere, you can't narrate the scene pretending you were. Stick to the facts. Reality, when it comes to the dead, is enough on its own.
8. London: Abney Park and General Anders
The park-cemetery of Stoke Newington
Abney Park, in the heart of Stoke Newington, is one of the "Magnificent Seven": the seven Victorian garden cemeteries built around London in the nineteenth century. What strikes you is the shift from city frenzy to a nature reserve. The muffled hum of traffic on Stoke Newington High Street fades quickly, replaced by a hushed, woodland silence. It's like walking into another dimension, into a gothic, decadent atmosphere.
It's the opposite of Neapolitan tuff and the geometry of Santa Maria Capua Vetere. Here nature has taken possession again with British blessing: the cemetery is no longer operational, nobody is buried there, and the living keep walking through it. Dogs are allowed, entry is free. With an overcast sky and green everywhere you need the opposite of the tuff: a bit more light (positive compensation), faster shutter speeds, ISO between 400 and 1600, aperture between f/4 and f/5.6. For the fog and haze London never runs short of, you'll find other tricks in Fog isn't a flaw.
General Anders: from London to Monte Cassino
And in London the thread to Italy ties tight. General Władysław Anders, who led the Polish 2nd Corps in Italy, died in London in 1970. He could have rested in England. He chose to be buried at Monte Cassino, beside his soldiers, in a cemetery of 1,051 travertine crosses. That's the other pole: memory on the slope of a mountain, in a place you reach by climbing.
In Italy we tend to fence death in, to put it outside the walls, in squares of tuff or marble. In Britain they live alongside it. Berto, in his workshop in Campania, would take his hat off in front of the enclosure. Bobby, in Hackney, takes his dog to the cemetery every morning and doesn't feel guilty: for him it's a park, and it's also a cemetery. Two cultures, two ways of looking through the same lens.
The masters: what to learn, what not to do
You don't learn to photograph grief by watching tutorials by kids with coloured LEDs in their bedrooms. You learn by studying those who've worked on it, and by asking where they touched perfection and where they crossed the line.
Robert Capa: staying close without stealing
On 2 October 1943, in Naples, the day after the Allies arrived, Capa photographed the funeral of twenty schoolboys from the Sannazaro secondary school, in the Vomero, who had fought the Germans in the Four Days. A crowd of weeping mothers, seen up close. More than three hundred Neapolitans died in that uprising.
Capa's closeness isn't a focal-length affectation. It's a declaration of risk and empathy: he's inside the scene. Here's the photo, in the Magnum archive.

Mario Giacomelli: the dignity of those who no longer have a voice
From 1954 Giacomelli frequented the care home in Senigallia, and between 1980 and 1983 he made from it the series Verrà la morte e avrà i tuoi occhi, a title taken from a poem by Cesare Pavese. The burnt-out image, the heavy blacks, the blurred, out-of-focus background go against every rule of formal cleanliness. They aren't flaws: they're his way of rendering time on people. And I say this because in cases like this, sharpness often isn't needed: I wrote about it in The obsession with sharpness is the tomb of creativity. Here you can see his images in the online archive.

W. Eugene Smith: when the masterpiece asks permission of those inside it
Tomoko Uemura in Her Bath (Minamata, 1971-72) is considered Smith's masterpiece: a mother bathing her daughter, severely disabled by mercury poisoning. The mother collaborated, and the scene was conceived and lit like a Pietà, to draw attention to the industrial disaster.
In 1997 a French television company asked for the rights for a documentary, and the family said no. Aileen Mioko Smith, who had inherited the rights, decided to authorise no further publication, and over the years handed the copyright over to Tomoko's parents, so they could let their daughter rest.
For this reason the image isn't reproduced here, nor is it linked. How that decision came about is explained in this recollection in The Digital Journalist. And if a family can ask for silence twenty years after their daughter's death, what would the dead of Caligiana ask for, if they still had anyone?
Sally Mann: the gaze that asks uncomfortable questions
In What Remains (2003) Mann brings together five sections. Among them: the remains of her dog Eva, the bodies at a forensic research facility, the Antietam battlefield. The harshest sections divide the critics: some see a respectful meditation, others wonder whether she had the right to photograph those bodies.
From the series I choose Antietam, the quietest. No corpses: only dark surfaces, imperfect collodion, and what she herself has said she was looking for, "orphan corners" of the battlefield, the ones without plaques. They're the places without a custodian, which I was talking about earlier. On Sally Mann's website you'll find the full body of work.

Alexander Gardner: the moved body
In July 1863, at Gettysburg, Gardner and his assistant Timothy O'Sullivan photographed the body of a Confederate soldier in the Devil's Den area. Then they found another position more dramatic, and moved the corpse by more than forty yards (later reconstructions say about 72) to beside a stone wall, with a rifle that was almost certainly a prop. They called it Home of a Rebel Sharpshooter and presented it as the home of a sharpshooter thinking of his family in his last moments.
The reconstruction is due to the historian William Frassanito, who in 1975 demonstrated the move; a minority of scholars dispute it, most confirm it. The document, at that point, becomes staging. The image can be viewed in the US national archives.

Shahak Shapira: the selfie in front of the dead
In January 2017 the German-Israeli artist Shahak Shapira launched Yolocaust: twelve smiling selfies taken at the Holocaust memorial in Berlin, superimposed on archive photographs of the extermination camps. The site had 2.5 million visits in a week. All twelve authors wrote to him to apologise and almost all removed the photos; after a week Shapira closed the project.
The project is itself questionable: it used images of real people without their consent. But the behaviour it denounced, the place as a backdrop, is a mistake everyone has an obligation not to repeat. Here's the report in the Times of Israel.

If you stop at composition, you make postcards. I've talked about this in more depth in In front of the fire, behind the lens and in Enough postcards: a guide to environmental protest photography.
Post-production: without lying
Opening Lightroom after an afternoon in a cemetery takes discipline. In front of you are sliders that can turn a grey day into an apocalypse, a corroded headstone into a theatrical trick. That's where many photographers betray themselves.
The mistake in my Caligiana photo
Look at my photo of the Caligiana enclosure, the one at the start. The corners are closed almost to black, and that vignetting pushes the eye to the centre, towards the slabs. It's an honest example of what not to do: the emphasis of an effect in place of a composition. It shouts where the place asked for a whisper.
Subtract, don't accumulate
In documentary work, post-production acts by subtraction. Measured contrast, readable blacks, whites that don't blow out. No heavy HDR, which saturates the moss an acid green and turns skies into plastic storms: it robs the document of its credibility.
If you decide the story should be told in black and white, and often in these places it should, because colour distracts from the geometry of memory, convert it with care and declare it as an authorial choice, not as a way out of a wrong white balance. Here's a useful refresher: Thinking in black and white: the mental map of tone.
Declaring reconstructed images
The final rule applies to images you didn't take as well. Photographs reconstructed with artificial intelligence, like some of those in this article, are declared in the caption, in plain sight, not in a side note. How to do it well, between Italy and the UK, I explain in Made with AI: what to declare between Italy and the UK.
Operational checklist
Before you shoot, check:
Permissions. Have you checked who looks after the place and, if needed, asked for written authorisation?
Flash off. No illuminators, no blinking indicator lights; silent shutter if possible.
Scene untouched. Headstone covered by earth? It stays covered. Dried flowers? You document them dried.
Distance. If your framing intrudes on a prayer, you give up the shot.
Faces. Never people at prayer, from the front, without permission.
Kit declared. The limits of the camera aren't hidden behind filters.
Honest captions. Write what's reconstructed, what's generated, what's real.
Conclusion
I've never wiped the drive with the Caligiana photos. Not out of pride: to remember.
Low-cost marketing and content anxiety have convinced us that every corner of the world is at our disposal, ready to be packaged into views. Places of memory resist that logic. They aren't yours. They aren't mine.
In Naples, in the tuff of the Fontanelle. At Santa Maria Capua Vetere, among the Poles who died far from home. At Caiazzo, in a convent nobody wants to remember any more. In London, in the mud of Abney Park. In there the rules are turned upside down: it isn't you capturing the image, it's the place that lets you hold on to a reflection of it.
In a place of mourning there's no such thing as a neutral photograph. Either you honour it, or you trample it.
If you have to document a place like this for work, for an organisation, a family, an editorial project, write to me before you shoot. It starts there.
Sources
Where the sources disagree, I've said so in the text. Historical reconstructions attributed to a single source are flagged as such.
- Fontanelle Cemetery, reopening and management On prices the sources disagree: see the official website.
- Abney Park, London
- Polish section of the Santa Maria Capua Vetere cemetery Data on the graves: conservation survey by Piotr Niemcewicz, Toruń, 11 November 2016, commissioned by the Polish Ministry of Culture. The cause of the deaths (Spanish flu) is a hypothesis in the Dea Notizie article, with no documents cited. Graves: about a hundred; deaths cited in one source: about a hundred and twenty.
- Monte Cassino and General Anders
- Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, Caiazzo Founded 1496, suppressed 1866, state of conservation "dire", protection decree no. 49 of 28 March 2006.
- Collapses at Poggioreale cemetery, Naples (2022)
- San Pietro Infine and John Huston's documentary
- Pripyat
- Robert Capa, funeral of the young partisans, Naples, 2 October 1943
- Mario Giacomelli, Verrà la morte e avrà i tuoi occhi
- W. Eugene Smith, Tomoko Uemura in Her Bath The image is neither reproduced nor linked: the family has asked for it to be withdrawn from circulation.
- Sally Mann, What Remains and the Antietam series
- Alexander Gardner, Home of a Rebel Sharpshooter Frassanito's reconstruction (1975) is accepted by most scholars and disputed by a minority.
- Shahak Shapira, Yolocaust
Frequently asked questions
Can you take photographs in a cemetery?
It depends on the cemetery and on what you'll use the photos for. For personal photos, in many places nobody will stop you, but every cemetery has a custodian and a set of rules. For editorial or commercial use you almost always need permission. In Italy many municipal funeral and burial regulations require prior authorisation from the head of the service to photograph graves and funerary monuments. Always ask first.
Do you need permission to photograph at the Fontanelle?
For an ordinary visit, booking is compulsory. For editorial or commercial use, or with professional kit, write to La Paranza, the cooperative that runs the site together with Naples City Council. Always check opening hours, closing days and prices on the official website, as they've changed several times.
How do you shoot in low light without flash?
With effective stabilisation, the widest aperture possible and a high ISO that your sensor can sustain. With a Lumix G90 you can get to 1/30 of a second handheld on still subjects, with ISO between 3200 and 6400. With a Nikon D3200 it's best not to go above ISO 3200. Shoot in RAW, the raw file, and measure white balance off a neutral grey.
What should you never photograph in a cemetery?
People at prayer, from the front, without permission. Other people's graves up close, if the regulations forbid it. Scenes you've altered: moved objects, cleaned headstones, arranged flowers. And never a single isolated skull with a blurred background for effect.
Can I publish photos of graves or of people at the cemetery?
It depends on who can be recognised and on what the regulations say. If people are identifiable, the European privacy regulation (GDPR) applies. For other people's graves, municipal regulations may also require the family's consent. If in doubt, avoid faces and ask in writing.
What kit do you need to photograph a place of memory?
What you've got. You need good stabilisation or a fast lens, and a telephoto if you want to keep your distance from people at prayer. An entry-level DSLR like the Nikon D3200 or a Lumix G90 is enough. The real constraint isn't the camera: it's knowing its limits and declaring them.
How do you declare an image generated with artificial intelligence?
In the caption, in plain sight, directly under the image, saying that it's generated with artificial intelligence and what it reconstructs. If it's inspired by someone else's work, name the title and the author. Don't bury it in a footnote.
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